Peach Tree Care
Sunday, January 25th, 2009In general it is good to do structural pruning of fruit trees during their dormancy. You can fine tune them after full leaf in the summer. Peach trees, whether planted or volunteer, respond best to winter pruning between mid-February and early March. If they are pruned too early in the winter (Oct-Jan) there is an increased chance of bacterial infection. Summer pruning can be done in early to mid-July.
When looking at your tree you should notice that it is ‘bushy’, that is as you move farther out along each branch there are more and more twigs and extensions until, when you reach the last 10-12″ say, all the growth is tangled, crossing, and intertwined. Peach, plum, apricots, and their like need to have this type of growth to produce well, but it must be maintained. Peaches produce fruit on the wood that grew over the previous season. If you look carefully on your tree you can see where the color and texture of the wood change along each limb.
A mature, producing peach tree is best suited to‘vase’ architecture. The center should be open, the scaffolding limbs radiating out from the center and rising, the spacing such that each has adequate resource allocation. The overall height can be between eight and ten feet, the spread should be no more than seven to nine feet from center to outer edge.
To create this result the center stem of the tree will have to be headed. This will seem drastic, and depending on the age of the tree being cared for it might be up to a 3” caliper cut, but it must be done. Pick a place between 30” and 42” above the ground where there are good lateral limbs, ideally they will be attached at angles of forty-five degrees or more, and remove the center stem. The sooner in the tree’s life this heading cut is made the better.
Then limb by limb you work carefully from the inside of the tree out to the ends. You start by excising branches that are rubbing against each other, leaving the most viable branch and removing the one that is weak, or growing backwards, or crossing into the other limbs. The idea is to create a framework of limbs that will support the weight of all your delicious peaches, that have adequate room to collect sunlight, that won’t interfere with each other, and that have the space along their length for the ‘brushes’ of fine branches and twigs from last year’s growth that bear the fruit.
Dead, broken, and low hanging branches are also removed. As you move out further along each limb remove the larger verticals that are crowding the center. Leave the ones from last year that are about pencil thick and 12-18” long. Any that are less than this diameter, the ‘weak’ ones, are excised also. Try to maintain even spacing and numbers on each limb. Do not worry about getting everything perfect during the winter prune. You never want to prune too heavily. Remember that the fine tuning will be done in the summer. Thin the ends lightly, pruning them to outward growing laterals at the desired tree height.
Your peach should bloom thickly and set many more small fruit than it can carry to maturity. These are carefully thinned by hand about a month after the blossoms drop. Strive to get a crop where the peaches are spaced evenly about six inches apart. Move along each branch and, grasping the main stem in one hand, quickly pinch off the undesired fruit. A peach should never be pruned so hard in the winter that the fruit does not need to be hand thinned.
The July pruning consists of removing any over vigorous shoots that arise in the spring, keeping the tiny new shoots, just ensure that there is adequate sun and air to each of the scaffolding branches. If a last year center shoot is over 24” tall, but is not crowding, then nip it back to a lateral bud about a third of the way back from its tip. Move out to the branch ends and again lightly prune to outward laterals to keep the overall vase shape. Use this pruning time to ensure that the branches are not over weighted; they should spring back sharply from a brisk tug.
As the peach matures and the final frame forms, only light pruning should be needed over the remaining life of the tree. Just keep an eye as to balancing form and function of the tree. As a final care note, spread a nice organic chip mulch around your tree to a depth of 4-6” out to the drip line. I prefer one that has not been mixed with fertilizers of any sort. The mulch will rebuild the soil and give the tree the essentials it needs for a robust annual crop and great longevity.

